Do you know the joy of soaking in a warm hot spring while watching the snow fall during a cold winter? The snow gleams white, the steam rises, and your body gradually warms up. It’s the happiest moment of winter.
However, a snow-viewing hot spring is a tricky situation. To have the best experience, you need the right combination of snow, water temperature, and scenery. I’ve visited many snow-viewing hot springs, but Aoni Onsen is the best of them all.
The Four Unique Baths of Aoni Onsen
Aoni Onsen offers both outdoor and indoor baths. One of the great features of Aoni Onsen is that even the indoor baths have large windows, allowing you to enjoy the snowy scenery. Usually, when the view is good, the water temperature tends to drop, making the experience less pleasant. However, at this onsen, the large windows allow you to enjoy the view without the water temperature dropping. You can keep the windows closed and still take in the scenery, or even open them without significantly lowering the water temperature, ensuring a very comfortable and enjoyable experience.
The Enchanting Atmosphere by Oil Lamps
Aoni Onsen has no electric lighting, which is quite surprising for us who are accustomed to it. This is not a campsite; it’s a traditional inn. Instead, there are oil lamps. These oil lamps cast a warm, orange glow throughout the interior, creating a relaxing atmosphere.
Enjoy the wood-paneled interior illuminated by the soft lamp light, along with the traditional art pieces that add to the charm.
Savor Delicious Meals Around the Irori
At Aoni Onsen, meals are served in a dining hall rather than in your room. Enjoy river fish and mountain vegetables in the soft glow of the lamps.
Iwana, a rare river fish in Japan, is grilled over charcoal on the irori (traditional hearth). It has a smoky, savory flavor with a simple seasoning of salt. Refresh yourself with healthy appetizers, stewed dishes, and pickles made with an abundance of vegetables and wild plants grown in Aomori’s rich natural environment.
Another highlight is the selection of alcoholic beverages. Aomori is famous for its sake, so you can enjoy not only Japanese beer but also various kinds of sake. A unique option here is “Iwana no Hire-zake.” This special drink is made by steeping the roasted fin of the Iwana fish in sake, giving it a fragrant, smoky flavor. While fugu (pufferfish) is commonly used for hire-zake in Japan, having Iwana no Hire-zake is a rare opportunity you won’t want to miss.
Disconnect to Reconnect — A Digital Detox
I mentioned that the oil lamps are a distinctive feature, but in fact, this inn has neither electricity nor cell phone signal. This might sound a bit unsettling, but don’t worry—I had a very comfortable stay.
Your smartphone won’t have a signal, and there are no TVs or hairdryers. However, the snowy scenery is breathtaking, the stove keeps the rooms warm, and time flies when you’re enjoying moments with family or friends. It’s the perfect opportunity to detox while being surrounded by nature.
My recommendation is to buy an apple pie, a specialty of Hirosaki City, along the way. Then, after warming up in the onsen, enjoy the pie in your room while chatting. It will make for a wonderful memory.
Just in case, bring a portable charger. And don’t worry—there is cell phone reception if you walk a little away from the inn.
Access
Aoni Onsen is quite far away, which can be both a good and a bad thing. But why not enjoy the journey along the way?
There are two main routes to reach Aoni Onsen: by plane or by Shinkansen (bullet train).
Route 1: Haneda Airport → Aomori Airport → Aomori Station → Hirosaki Station → Kuroishi Station → Bus to Aoni Onsen.
Route 2: Haneda Airport → Aomori Station → Hirosaki Station → Kuroishi Station → Bus to Aoni Onsen.
Both routes take quite a bit of time, but neither is difficult to navigate.
Hirosaki City is the second-largest city in Aomori and is famous for its apples. There are many apple pie shops, so be sure to stop by and try some. Kuroishi Station, on the other hand, offers a chance to see traditional Japanese streetscapes. It’s worth taking a stroll around if you have time.
Here is the English translation:
Aoni Onsen is a bit of a challenging, hidden hot spring to reach, but it is absolutely worth visiting. If you have any concerns or questions, please feel free to ask in the comments!
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